IT WON'T START!by Kurt Knollenberg
Sooner or later if you own your watercraft long enough you will experience a starter failure. You push the button and there is a click (or just silence) and then nothing. The familiar growling of your engine coming to life is not there, just a sinking feeling that you are not going riding that day.
The starter is a fairly simple device; it is a small motor that uses torque multiplication to turn over the much stronger main engine. On most watercraft, except the very small bore units, the starter driving gear engages with a reduction gear cluster that allows the relatively weak starter to turn the engine over fast enough for it to run under its' own power. There is one manufacturer who uses a direct drive from the starter motor to the ring gear on the outside of the flywheel even on their larger cc boats. Sea-Doo's use this direct drive and although it seems less reliable it seems to work for them.
When you are experiencing a starting problem be sure to ascertain that the battery has a good charge on it and that all the cables are firmly in place with no signs of corrosion. Do not forget the ground cable! Many times I have seen someone almost pulling their hair out trying to find why their battery will not turn the motor over, even though they have just charged it. Only to find out later that corrosion and electrolysis have disrupted the electrical path so severely that it will never turn over!
There is a common problem in many starters (especially S-D 800) that is easily and inexpensively remedied even by the home mechanic. The brushes that are inside the starter and that conduct current are easily broken by vibration and age. The replacement brush sets or even full brush plates are just a fraction of the cost of a new starter and easy to install.
The first thing to do is to disconnect the negative battery terminal and remove the main starter cable from the starter body. With these out of the way it will be much easier to get at the starter mounting bolts. If your model has a ground cable that is attached near the starter then remove it also.
At the rear of most starters there is a rear support bracket, remove the bolt that goes through this bracket. At the front of the starter (in some cases the front of the starter housing) there will be the two primary mounting bolts. These are usually 8mm bolts, when these are removed the starter will be free to pull out backwards an inch or two and then be free from the engine.
With the starter out of the engine and on the bench you should do one test before disassembling it. Take the main starter wire that you removed from the starter and remove it from the solenoid (the other end of the wire). Then reattach it to its' mounting post on the starter body, attach the other end to the positive side of the battery. Hold the rear of the starter to the negative post of the battery. If the starter turns over furiously then you can be fairly sure that the problem is in the solenoid, not the starter motor itself, if so then replace the starter and remove and replace the solenoid. If this test does not turn the starter over then disconnect the wire and proceed to the disassembly process.
Disassembling the starter:
First thing to do is to remove all grease and foreign material from the outside of the motor body, with a clean outside body mark the body with a line from a felt marker from one end to the other. This mark will prevent you from putting it together incorrectly later. If you are unsure then go one step further and mark the main pieces from one end with numbers or letters so that there is no mistaking which parts go where later!
At the rear end of the body there are two bolts that go all the way from one end to the other, remove these bolts. At the post where the main starter cable connects you can remove the jam nut and this will allow the brush to be released when you pull the body pieces apart. Carefully remove the now loose rear cap from the starter, you will see that the brush plate within the starter wants to come out with it. Go ahead and remove the brush plate with the rear cap but do try and mark its position with the marker before you really get it separated, once again this will ease the assembly later. If your starter is like most I have ever seen then your problem will be fairly apparent at this point. Most often you will see that the brush that is supposed to be connected to the post is either dangling off the brush or dangling off the post but not connected to both. If this is the case then go to your local dealer and get a replacement, with it in hand simply reverse the process and Viola your starter is working again! After the starter is back together I like to seal my starter motors with 1211 silicone sealant at all junctions. Just for a little extra water protection and I always put a good bead of silicone around the front of the unit where it goes into the case to protect both the starter and the stator.
If the brushes are not broken or worn to little nubs it is probably time to get some professional help, rewinding a starter is a job best left to a pro.
If this is to be your first ever attempt to work on your watercraft (or even your hundredth) then I encourage you to buy a shop manual and take advantage of their step by step instructions and illustrations.
Good luck and Congratulations, you are back on the water.